Ocean surface waves : their physics and prediction /

The book contains a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes, and possibly landslides and asteroids impacts. Basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended appl...

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Bibliographic Details
Call Number:Libro Electrónico
Main Author: Massel, Stanislaw R. (Author)
Format: Electronic eBook
Language:Inglés
Published: Singapore ; Hackensack, NJ : World Scientific, ©2013.
Edition:2nd edition.
Series:Advanced series on ocean engineering ; v. 36.
Subjects:
Ocean waves.
Water waves.
Vagues.
SCIENCE > Earth Sciences > Geography.
SCIENCE > Earth Sciences > Geology.
Water waves
Ocean waves
Online Access:Texto completo
Table of Contents:
  • 1. Introduction
  • 2. Interaction of wind and ocean waves
  • 3. Spectral properties of ocean waves
  • 4. Statistical properties of ocean waves
  • 5. Properties of breaking waves
  • 6. Prediction of waves in deep water
  • 7. Prediction of waves in shallow water
  • 8. Freak waves
  • 9. Tsunami
  • 10. Waves at islands and coral reefs
  • 11. Waves in mangrove forests
  • 12. Wave-induced pressure and flow in a porous bottom
  • 13. Wave observations and long-term statistics
  • 14. Wave measurement techniques
  • 15. Data processing and simulation techniques.

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