Cargando…
Kam women artisans of China : dawn of the butterflies /
Deep in the fir woods of southwestern China, in a village called Dimen, live several women who are masters of many cultural arts. Following the centuries-old lifestyle of their ancestors, they are the living repositories of their civilization. They carry the unwritten history and wisdom of the Kam p...
| Clasificación: | Libro Electrónico |
|---|---|
| Autor principal: | |
| Formato: | Electrónico eBook |
| Idioma: | Inglés |
| Publicado: |
Newcastle upon Tyne :
Cambridge Scholars Publishing,
2018.
|
| Temas: | |
| Acceso en línea: | Texto completo |
Tabla de Contenidos:
- Preface: Arrival
- 1. Introduction
- 1.1. Broken thread: heritage that survival centuries about to be forgotten
- 1.2 Finding the story's thread: preceding projects
- 1.3 Tying the knot: apprenticeship
- 1.4 Weaving the tale: matriarchs' lessons, big and small
- 2. Places and faces
- 2.1. The 'hidden' Kam: the Kam ethnic group
- 2.2. Dimen, the Kam spring: Dimen highlights
- 2.3 The 'living' museum: Dimen Dong Cultural Eco Museum
- 3. The living legends
- 3.1. The Za at a glance: five matriarchs I apprenticed with
- 3.2. Wu Meitz: the humble wealth of knowledge who never judges the younger generations
- 3.3 Wu Gaitian: the only one who remembers the origin of all beings
- 3.4. Wu Mnci: the widow who raised five sons and sang through it
- 3.5. Wu Yingniang: the one who sees once and remembers everything
- 3.6. Wu Huazhuan: the orphan who never went to school but learned it all
- 4. Papermaking
- 4.1. Paper magic: magic of Kam paper
- 4.2. Bark stripping: separating bark layers with a sickle
- 4.3. Mulberry hunt: finding mulberry tree branches
- 4.4. Endless mashing: making paper
- 4.5. Different processes, same results: slightly different techniques to make paper
- 4.6. Little books to store her treasures: making paper purses
- 5. Back-strap loom
- 5.1. Weaving ABCs: introduction to weaving and back-strap looms
- 5.2. Liping interlude: gathering with Wu Mnci and her family in Liping
- 5.3. Colorful threading: making a back-strap loom and warping it
- 5.4. Flower my belts: weaving 'flower' belts on a back-strap loom
- 5.5. Baby steps: we weave a simple pattern on a back-strap loom
- 5.6. After all, practice makes perfect: restretching warp on a back-strap loom and making secondary heddles
- 6. Spinning and preparing thread
- 6.1. From flowers to fabric: making Kam fabric
- 6.2. Yarn beyond compare: spinning yarn from ramie fibers
- 6.3. Sunny twists: preparing cotton thread
- 6.4. Songs and cones: winding threads on cones and preparing the warp
- 7. Frame loom
- 7.1. Great-great-grandmother's loom: Wu Meitz tells the history of her loom
- 7.2. Let the timber sing: Kam loom anatomy
- 7.3. Dressing the loom: beaming the warp and preparing the loom
- 8. From back-strap to frame loom
- 8.1. Breaking the back on warping benches: warping a frame loom to make narrow drawstrings
- 8.2. Drawstring as an art form: weaving narrow decorative drawstrings on a frame loom
- 9. Indigo paste
- 9.1. Indigo blues: indigo around the world
- 9.2. Two tales of orphaned girls: taboo surrounding indigo
- 9.3. Four seasons: taking care of indigo plants
- 9.4. Making the Kam gold: preparing indigo paste
- 10. Indigo vat
- 10.1. Grandmother's bath: preparing an indigo dyebath
- 10.2. Blue do-over: redoing indigo dyebath
- 10.3. Sometimes others know better: Miao people's indigo dyebath
- 11. Dying the indigo
- 11.1 Blue nails are in: dying hand-made cloth in indigo
- 11.2. Dye, dye, dye some more: second indigo dyeing lesson
- 11.3. Interlude: feast for a baby: we visit a baby celebration
- 11.4. Loop backwards: I hang the cloth the wrong way
- 11.5. Our blues of the blues: we dye in our vat, unassisted
- 12. Post-indigo treatment
- 12.1. Stiff beans: treating the cloth with bean starch
- 12.2. Mountain goats: finding roots and leaves to make red dye
- 12.3. Red to black: making red dyestuff and apply it to indigo-dyed cloth
- 12.4. Ox sludge: making ox skin liquid and treating the fabric with it
- 13. Pleated skirt
- 13.1. Sticky flutes: pleating fabric for a skirt
- 13.2. Itchy hair: sewing pleats together and stiffening the skirt in ox skin liquid
- 13.3. Hollow buckets: steaming the skirt pleats and dyeing them in indigo
- 13.4. Sticky stiching: hand-sewing the skirt
- 14. Embroidery
- 14.1. Sunflowers and moths: Kam embroidery
- 14.2. The ageless under-apron: under-apron made more than sixty-five years ago
- 14.3. Bridge super sampler: Wu Mnci shows her embroidery
- 14.4. Flower past blossom: satin stitch embroidery technique
- 14.5. Glasses rule: embroidering with Wu Huazhuan and her friends
- 14.6. A butterfly needs flowers to live: embroidering a hat
- 14.7. Feng Shui master's patterns: cutting embroidery patterns
- 14.8. Centipedes, dragons, and snakes: Dimen motifs
- 15. Garments
- 15.1. Made in China, by the Kam: introduction to Kam garments in Dimen
- 15.2. Subtle patterns: sewing patterns for a jacket
- 15.3. Who needs tailor's chalk?: Cutting fabric
- 15.4. Not my grandma's sewing machine: sewing a jacket
- Birds in song: sewing an under-apron and calf-wraps
- 15.6. Dragon shoes: making pointed cloth shoes
- 16. "Kamness" in making
- 16.1. Dinner that made us family: how we earned a place by serving the women
- 16.2. The whole package: learning from the lifestyle
- 16.3. Different times, different songs: Kam songs
- 16.4. Dramatic didactics: Kam opera
- 16.5. No nails needed: Kam architecture
- 16.6 Haven no more: impact of industrialization and globalization
- 16.7. Building bridges: hope for the future
- 16.8. Butterfly songs: how the Za found their voice
- Glossary
- Kam vocabulary
- Conversion chart
- Bibliography
- Index
- Acknowledgments.