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Fashion and jazz : dress, identity and subcultural improvisation /
"Born in the late 19th century, jazz gained mainstream popularity during a volatile period of racial segregation and gender inequality. It was in these adverse conditions that jazz performers discovered the power of dress as a visual tool used to defy mainstream societal constructs, shaping a n...
| Clasificación: | Libro Electrónico |
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| Autor principal: | |
| Formato: | Electrónico eBook |
| Idioma: | Inglés |
| Publicado: |
London ; New York :
Bloomsbury Academic,
2015.
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| Colección: | Dress, body, culture.
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| Temas: | |
| Acceso en línea: | Texto completo |
Tabla de Contenidos:
- Cover page; Halftitle page; Series page; Title page; Copyright page; Contents; Illustrations; ACKNOWLEDGMENTS; INTRODUCTION; Signifi cance of a fashion and jazz history; 1 DRESS THEORY, FASHION AND A JAZZ AESTHETIC; Pattern of influence between fashion and jazz; Freedom of expression in fashion and jazz; The role of fashion; A language of dress in jazz; The influential fashion system; The representation of dress; Defining a jazz aesthetic; Conclusion; 2 A STYLISH HISTORY OF JAZZ: 1900-1960; Origins of jazz expression; Ragtime music; Ragtime era fashion; Blues music; Blues era fashion.
- Swing musicSwing era fashion; Bebop music; Bebop era fashion; Modern jazz: Music and fashion; Conclusion; 3 A NARRATIVE OF JAZZ MODERNITY; Postmodern identity in jazz; Qualities of modernism in jazz; Modern ideals in fashion; Visually modern; Communicating modernity; Modern practices of jazz performers; Conclusion; 4 ASSESSING ELITISM AND BRANDING IN JAZZ; Societal opposition to jazz; An elite identity; Male dress conformity; Evolution of feminine attraction; Signifying class distinction; Exhibiting an eccentric manner; Branding jazz in advertising; Classic marketing of jazz.
- Contemporary marketing of jazzConclusion; 5 GENDERED IDENTITIES, IDEOLOGIES AND CULTURAL DIFFERENCE; Functions of published sheet music; Imagining black culture; Female representations: Mammy, highbrow and temptress; Male representations: Servant, buffoon and sport; Conclusion; 6 SUBVERSIVE REPRESENTATION: VERNACULAR, DRESS AND MORALITY; Radical notions of jazz; Spoken word of blues singers; Jazz themes in literature; Visual image in fi lms; Conclusion; 7 NARCOTICS AND JAZZ: A FASHIONABLE ADDICTION; Narcotic effect; Demonizing drug addiction; Concealing addiction with fashion.
- Performing addiction in filmConclusion; 8 BEYOND THE GARDENIA: BILLIE HOLIDAY; Plain dame; Lost in Hollywood; Lady's day; 1930s: Draped in tradition; 1940s: An icon emerges; 1950s: Beyond the gardenia; Conclusion; 9 AESTHETICS OF THE JAZZ DANDY; Like Gods; Traditional dandy: Duke Ellington; Traditional dandy: Benny Carter; Modern dandy: Dizzy Gillespie; Modern dandy: Gerry Mulligan; Decoding jazz aesthetics in Clinton and Obama; 10 PHILADELPHIA NIGHTLIFE, NOSTALGIA AND POPULAR CULTURE; Philadelphia: Jazz city unsung; Desiring jazz prestige; Last call; CODA; APPENDIX I: RECOMMENDED LISTENING.
- APPENDIX II: RECOMMENDED VIEWINGBIBLIOGRAPHY; INDEX; Untitled.