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Advertising menswear : masculinity and fashion in the British media since 1945 /
In what was a golden age of British advertising, the notion of the ''peacock male'' was a strong theme in fashion promotion, reflecting a new affluence and the emergence of stylish youth cultures. Based on a detailed study of rich archival material, this pioneering study examines...
| Clasificación: | Libro Electrónico |
|---|---|
| Autor principal: | |
| Formato: | Electrónico eBook |
| Idioma: | Inglés |
| Publicado: |
London ; New York :
Bloomsbury,
2014.
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| Colección: | Dress and fashion research.
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| Temas: | |
| Acceso en línea: | Texto completo |
Tabla de Contenidos:
- Machine generated contents note: pt. ONE GOING FOR A BURTON: MENSWEAR ADVERTISING FROM AUSTERITY TO AFFLUENCE, 1945-57
- 1. The Post-war Market for Men's Clothing
- Key themes: The rationing and Utility schemes; class and earnings
- 2. Menswear Advertising: Agents, Accounts and Audiences: 'Will It Be Seen? Will It Be Remembered? Will It Be "Accepted"?'
- Key themes: The IPA social groups, target audiences and consumer categorization
- 3. The Economics of Press Advertising
- Key themes: Newspaper and periodical readerships; advertising rates and product placement
- 4. The Design and Rhetoric of Menswear Press Advertisements
- Key themes: The use of illustration and photography; the commercial artist and copywriter; Barratt shoes; Austin Reed; Zero and ICI Terylene
- 5. The Art versus Commerce Debate.
- Contents note continued: Key themes: Eric Newton, Mary Gowing and the Women's Advertising Club; taste and class; the use of type forms and intertextuality of word and image; the Layton Award; W.S. Crawford, Ashley Havinden and Daks; the 'cut-off' body and spectatorship
- 6. Poster Publicity and Menswear
- Key themes: Regulation of sites and circulation costs; poster visibility; Baracuta; Moss Brothers; Abram Games
- 7. Early Commercial Television and Menswear, 1955-60
- Key themes: ITV and regionalism; production and circulation costs; Burton's Rael Brook shirts
- 8. The Impact of Consumer Psychology and Motivation Research
- Key themes: Walter Dill Scott; Mass Observation and the Advertising Service Guild survey; Ernst Dichter; Vance Packard; McCann-Erickson and the personality of the product
- 9. 'Feeling with' and 'Feeling into': Appealing to Men and Women.
- Contents note continued: Key themes: Gender and consumption patterns; shirts and underwear; Lyle and Scott y-fronts, visual pleasure and tactility; Maurice Merleau-Ponty on seeing and touching; Freud, fetishism and phallic power
- 10. The Turn to New Consumers and Youth Culture
- Key themes: Neo-Edwardianism; Teddy boys and bricolage fashion; clothing, colour and decoration; Burton's and the male peacock
- pt. TWO THINKING YOUNG: MENSWEAR ADVERTISING AND THE GENERATION GAME, 1958-78
- 11. Sedimenting the Youth Market
- Key themes: Class, earnings and clothing expenditure; the male peacock; boutique culture and mods
- 12. Cinema and Television Advertising for Menswear
- Key themes: Markets and viewers; straight versus symbolic selling
- 13. Menswear Advertising in Newspapers and Magazines
- Key themes: Readerships, advertising rates and product placement; the impact of photography; the rise of the colour supplements
- 14. Poster Publicity and Menswear.
- Contents note continued: Key themes: Visibility and receptivity; advertising for shirts and Tootal's 'girl'
- 15. 'You Bring the Body, We've Got the Clothes': Publicity for Tailors
- Key themes: John Collier and 'The Window to Watch'; the male peacock; Burton's and brand identity
- 16. From Dummies to Dandies
- Key themes: Hector Powe and the tailor's dummy; Austin Reed, the gentleman and the dandy
- 17. Ironing out the Creases: Artificial Fibres and Menswear Advertising
- Key themes: Du Pont; Bri Nylon; polyester; acrylic; Terylene; shirts and trousers
- 18. Synthesizing Sex: Publicity for Artificial and Natural Fibres
- Key themes: Visual pleasure and gender; Terylene; Dormeuil mohair
- 19. 'Cloth for Men': Wool and the Whisper of Darker Things in Dormeuil's Tonik Press Campaign, 1968-75
- Key themes: Dormeuil Tonik; transvestism; androgyny; decadence; narcissism; style revivalism; camp
- 20. Looking Good, Feeling Good: Materiality and the Interplay of the Senses.
- Contents note continued: Key themes: Dormeuil Tonik; Austin Reed; Viyella; haptic visuality
- 21. Getting More for Your Money: Menswear Publicity and the 1970s Recession
- Key themes: The impact of inflation and unemployment on consumer spending; the changing of the guard from suits to casual wear
- pt. THREE LEADER OF THE PACK: JEANS ADVERTISING SINCE THE 1960s
- 22. The Jeans Market and Advertising between 1950 and 1985
- Key themes: Levi's, Wrangler and Brutus press and moving image publicity; the music soundtrack; advertising production costs; jeans sales and age groups
- 23. Levi's 501: Back to the Future?
- Key themes: Bartle, Bogle and Hegarty; the 'Bath' and 'Laundrette' (1985) campaigns and style revivalism
- 24. Here Comes New Man
- - Again
- Key themes: Haptic visuality and erotics; the male body and visual pleasure; the male consumer, street style and the style press; 'dual marketing' to straights and gays.
- Contents note continued: 25. A Soundtrack for Consumerism: Music, Image and Myth
- Key themes: Levi's, Wrangler and Lee; the music token; the music and image narrative; myth
- 26. More Than Just a Number: A New Style of Advertising for the 1990s
- Key themes: Wrangler, 'Crosstown Traffic' (1990) and verite; Levi's, `Settler's Creek' (1994), photography and the chronotope
- 27. Racial Sameness and Racial Difference
- Key themes: The advertising industry and institutional racism; black male models; Levi's and race; 'Taxi' (1985), transsexuality and race
- 28. From 'Mothers' to 'Flat Eric': Race, Gender, Age and Generation
- Key themes: Mimicry and the black subject in Hush Puppies publicity; Levi's and age; the downturn in the jeans market and the shift to experimental advertising; the rise of laddism, Ben Sherman and Levi's 'Flat Eric' (1999).