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|a UAMI
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|a Massel, Stanislaw R.,
|e author.
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245 |
1 |
0 |
|a Ocean surface waves :
|b their physics and prediction /
|c Stanisław R. Massel.
|
250 |
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|a 2nd edition.
|
260 |
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|a Singapore ;
|a Hackensack, NJ :
|b World Scientific,
|c ©2013.
|
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|a 1 online resource (xxi, 667 pages) :
|b illustrations, map.
|
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|a online resource
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|a Advanced series on ocean engineering ;
|v v. 36
|
588 |
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|a Online resource; title from PDF title page (viewed on Apr. 23, 2013).
|
504 |
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|a Includes bibliographical references (pages 581-631) and indexes.
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505 |
0 |
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|a 1. Introduction -- 2. Interaction of wind and ocean waves -- 3. Spectral properties of ocean waves -- 4. Statistical properties of ocean waves -- 5. Properties of breaking waves -- 6. Prediction of waves in deep water -- 7. Prediction of waves in shallow water -- 8. Freak waves -- 9. Tsunami -- 10. Waves at islands and coral reefs -- 11. Waves in mangrove forests -- 12. Wave-induced pressure and flow in a porous bottom -- 13. Wave observations and long-term statistics -- 14. Wave measurement techniques -- 15. Data processing and simulation techniques.
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520 |
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|a The book contains a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes, and possibly landslides and asteroids impacts. Basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view. New topics include wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, and freak waves.
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|a Ocean waves.
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|a Water waves.
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|a SCIENCE
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|a Water waves
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|a Ocean waves
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|i Print version:
|z 9781299462847
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|a Advanced series on ocean engineering ;
|v v. 36.
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