The chemistry of fragrances : from perfumer to consumer /

Ever wondered how perfumes are developed? Or why different scents appeal to different people? The Chemistry of Fragrances 2nd Edition offers answers to these questions, providing a fascinating insight into the perfume industry, from the conception of an idea to the finished product. It discusses the...

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Detalles Bibliográficos
Clasificación:Libro Electrónico
Otros Autores: Sell, Charles
Formato: Electrónico eBook
Idioma:Inglés
Publicado: Cambridge, UK : RSC Publishing, ©2006.
Edición:2nd ed.
Colección:RSC popular science.
Temas:
Perfumes.
Perfumes > History.
Perfumes > Analysis.
Perfume
Parfums.
Parfums > Histoire.
Parfums > Analyse.
perfume (scent)
TECHNOLOGY & ENGINEERING > Chemical & Biochemical.
Perfumes
Parfum.
History
Acceso en línea:Texto completo
Tabla de Contenidos:
  • Glossary
  • 1. The human relationship with fragrance / Linda Harman
  • 2. The history of aroma chemistry and perfume / David H. Pybus
  • 2.1. Early use of fragrance
  • 2.2. The age of chivalry
  • 2.3. The age of alchemy
  • 2.4. The age of discovery
  • 2.5. The age of revolution
  • 2.6. The age of empire (nineteenth century)
  • 2.6.1. Technique
  • 2.6.2. Structured perfumes, and use of synthetics
  • 2.6.3. Industrialisation and 'massification'
  • 2.7. The age of fashion (twentieth century)
  • 3. Perfumery materials of natural origin / Charles Sell
  • 3.1. Perfumes and odours in nature
  • 3.1.1. Introduction
  • 3.1.2. Biosynthesis
  • 3.2. Extraction of natural perfume ingredients
  • 3.2.1. Expression
  • 3.2.2. Distillation
  • 3.2.3. Solvent extraction
  • 3.3. Adulteration of natural perfume ingredients
  • 3.4. From natural to synthetic
  • References.
  • 4. Ingredients for the modern perfumery industry / Charles Sell
  • 4.1. Economic factors affecting perfume ingredient production
  • 4.2. Perfume ingredients derived from terpenoids
  • 4.2.1. Introduction
  • 4.2.2. Five key terpenoids
  • 4.2.3. Feedstocks
  • 4.2.4. Pinene pyrolysis
  • 4.2.5. Pinane pyrolysis
  • 4.2.6. The Carroll reaction
  • 4.2.7. The Claisen rearrangement
  • 4.2.8. Prenyl chloride
  • 4.2.9. The Ene reaction
  • 4.2.10. Elegance, a four-step process
  • 4.2.11. Hemiterpenoids
  • 4.2.12. Acyclic monoterpenoids
  • 4.2.13. Cyclic monoterpenes
  • 4.2.14. Menthol
  • 4.2.15. Bicyclic monoterpenoids
  • 4.2.16. Sesquiterpenoids
  • 4.2.17. Cedarwood
  • 4.2.18. Sandalwood
  • 4.2.19. Diterpenoids
  • 4.2.20. Ambergris
  • 4.2.21. Ionones and related compounds
  • 4.3. Musks
  • 4.4. Perfume ingredients derived from benzene
  • 4.5. Perfume ingredients derived from toluene
  • 4.6. Perfume ingredients derived from phenol
  • 4.7. Perfume ingredients derived from naphthalene
  • 4.8. Perfume ingredients derived from aliphatic materials
  • 4.9. Perfume ingredients derived from cyclopentanone
  • 4.10. Perfume ingredients derived from dicyclopentadiene
  • 4.11. Conclusions
  • References.
  • 5. The structure of an international fragrance company / David H. Pybus
  • 5.1. The business-getting chain
  • 5.2. The supply chain
  • References
  • 6. The perfume brief / David H. Pybus
  • 6.1. Brief for Eve, prepared by Business Scents Ltd
  • 6.1.1. Background
  • 6.1.2. Product range
  • 6.1.3. General
  • 6.1.4. Fragrance
  • 6.1.5. Timescale
  • 6.1.6. Brief recipients
  • 6.1.7. Price
  • 6.1.8. Production
  • 6.2. Toxicology
  • 7. Perfumer creation : the role of the perfumer / Les Small
  • 7.1. Soap
  • 7.2. Shampoo
  • 7.3. Shower and bath gel
  • 7.4. Antiperspirant
  • Reference
  • 8. Measurement of fragrance perception / Anne Churchill
  • 8.1. Introduction
  • 8.2. Market research
  • 8.3. Sensory analysis
  • 8.3.1. Threshold
  • 8.3.2. Intensity
  • 8.3.3. Quality
  • 8.3.3.1. Qualitative descriptive analysis
  • 8.3.3.2. Odour profiling
  • 8.3.4. Statistical techniques
  • 8.3.4.1. Multidimensional scaling
  • 8.3.4.2. Principal component analysis
  • 8.4. Multisensory approach
  • 8.5. Psychology of perfume
  • 8.6. The business scents brief
  • 8.6.1. Definition of the appropriate odour area
  • 8.7. Analysis of ingredients to convey the appropriate odour characteristics
  • 8.8. Creating fragrances for the future
  • References.
  • 9. The application of fragrance / Judi Beerling
  • 9.1. The role of the applications department
  • 9.2. Product formulations
  • 9.2.1. Fine fragrance
  • 9.2.2. Vegetable soap
  • 9.2.3. Aerosol antiperspirant
  • 9.2.4 Shampoo
  • 9.2.5. Shower and bath gel
  • 9.3. Stability testing
  • 9.3.1. Humidity testing
  • 9.3.2. Light testing
  • 9.3.3. Assessment and reporting of results
  • References
  • 10. The safety and toxicology of fragrances / Steve Meakins
  • 10.1. Introduction
  • 10.2. Self regulation
  • 10.3. Safety assessment
  • 10.4. Skin irritation
  • 10.5. Skin sensitisation
  • 10.6. Photoeffects
  • 10.7. Neurotoxicity
  • 10.8. Reproductive effects
  • 10.9. Natural ingredients
  • 10.10. Conclusions
  • References
  • 11. Volatility and substantivity / Keith D. Perring
  • 11.1. Perfume creation and physical chemistry
  • 11.2. Perfume ingredient volatility
  • 11.3. Perfume polarity
  • 11.4. Substantivity and retention
  • 11.5. Conclusions
  • References.
  • 12. Natural product analysis in the fragrance industry / Robin Clery
  • 12.1. Introduction
  • 12.2. Natural product analysis
  • 12.2.1. The traditional approach
  • 12.2.2. The headspace approach
  • 12.3. Analytical techniques used in the fragrance industry
  • 12.3.1. Extraction
  • 12.3.2. Gas-liquid chromatography
  • 12.3.2.1. GC injection systems
  • 12.3.2.2. GC columns
  • 12.3.2.3. GC detectors
  • 12.3.3. Preparative liquid chromatography
  • 12.4. Positive identification
  • 12.5. Headspace collection
  • 12.6. The future
  • References
  • 13. Chemoreception / Charles Sell
  • 13.1. Why have a sense of smell?
  • 13.2. Measuring smell
  • 13.3. Cell wall structure
  • 13.4. Proteins involved in signal generation
  • 13.5. Anatomy of smell
  • 13.6. Signal generation
  • 13.7. The combinatorial nature of odour perception
  • 13.8. Signal processing
  • 13.9. Implications for odorant design
  • References.
  • 14. The search for new ingredients / Karen Jenner
  • 14.1. Introduction
  • 14.2. The need
  • 14.3. The search
  • 14.3.1. Clues from nature
  • 14.3.2. Serendipity
  • 14.3.3. Synthesis of analogues
  • 14.4. Computer-aided design
  • 14.4.1. Ligand-olfactory receptor modelling
  • 14.4.2. Structure-activity relationships
  • 14.4.2.1. The Hansch approach
  • 14.4.2.2. Pattern recognition
  • 14.4.2.3. Conformational analysis and the olfactophore approach
  • 14.4.3. Conformational analysis on small data sets
  • 14.5. Summary
  • Acknowledgements
  • References
  • 15. Buying fragrance ingredients and selling fragrance compounds / David H. Pybus
  • 15.1. Buying
  • 15.1.1. Categorisation of suppliers and materials
  • 15.1.1.1. Supplier relationships
  • 15.1.1.2. Nature of material
  • 15.1.2. Procurement organisation
  • 15.2. Sales and marketing
  • 16. The finale : brief submission / Les Small
  • Appendix I. Some of the more important natural fragrance materials
  • Appendix II. Useful addresses.

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